Nubuck Leather: What It Is and How to Care for It

Nubuck leather is one of those materials you can recognize with your eyes closed. Just a touch is enough to feel its soft, velvety texture—an invitation to the senses that conveys understated elegance. This isn’t just any leather: it’s refined, demanding, yet incredibly resilient. And it’s precisely this dual nature that makes it so beloved in artisan craftsmanship, especially for accessories like bags, backpacks, shoes, and jackets.
In this guide, we’ll explore what nubuck leather is, what sets it apart from other types of leather, and—most importantly—how to care for it properly to preserve its charm and quality over time. A small daily gesture can make all the difference.

What Is Nubuck Leather?

Nubuck is made from the outer layer of bovine hide—the same high-quality part used for full-grain leather. However, unlike full-grain, nubuck undergoes a light sanding or buffing process to create its signature matte, velvety finish. This delicate abrasion is done with care to ensure a smooth, even surface while preserving the leather’s natural strength.
It’s often confused with suede, but there’s a crucial difference: nubuck comes from the outer, more durable side of the hide, while suede is made from the inner, more porous and delicate layer. As a result, nubuck is denser, tougher, and longer-lasting, while still offering a soft, natural look. Even the feel is distinct—nubuck is velvety yet firm, whereas suede tends to be softer but more fragile.
Its lightly brushed surface enhances the depth and richness of color, revealing subtle variations depending on the light. Nubuck is a living material, capable of evolving over time and developing a unique patina. With use, it gains a natural sheen that makes every piece one-of-a-kind.

Why Choose Nubuck Leather?

Those who choose a nubuck leather accessory are often looking for more than just functionality. Nubuck stands out for its quiet sophistication—elegant without being showy—and for its enveloping tactile sensation. It’s a thoughtful choice, one that values understated beauty and refined craftsmanship.
Its strengths include durability, softness, and the ability to enhance simple lines and clean designs. Thanks to its fine grain, it lends itself to highly precise work, which is why it’s often used in high-end artisanal leather goods. It’s also remarkably workable: nubuck allows for fine stitching, precise cuts, and carefully crafted finishes—all key traits in premium products.
That said, its delicate surface requires more care than other types of leather. Nubuck absorbs liquids and oils more easily and can stain if not treated properly. Prolonged exposure to sunlight or heat can also affect its natural beauty. But don’t be discouraged—with a bit of care, nubuck gives back far more than it demands. Over time, it becomes a true style companion: reliable, elegant, and unmistakably yours.

Essential Tools for Nubuck Care

Maintaining nubuck in excellent condition doesn’t require dozens of products—just the right tools. A crepe brush or soft-bristled brush is essential for daily care: it helps lift dust and keep the nap even without damaging the surface. Regular brushing not only cleans but also revives the leather’s original texture.
Special nubuck erasers (similar to those used for suede shoes) are useful for treating small stains or marks. They’re easy to use and highly effective, as long as they’re applied gently. There are also waterproofing sprays designed specifically for this type of leather, which create an invisible barrier against moisture and dirt. Using them regularly is a simple and effective way to extend the life of your accessory.
Finally, some manufacturers offer color balms or restorers that should be used sparingly—only when the leather begins to lose its luster. These products help preserve the original look and even out any tonal variations, especially on heavily used bags and backpacks.

How to Clean Nubuck: Key Steps

Cleaning nubuck requires patience, ideally when you have time to focus on the item. Always start with a dry brush, following the direction of the nap: this removes surface dust and reactivates the velvety feel. If the leather looks flattened, a firmer brushing can help restore its volume.
For light stains, use a slightly damp microfiber cloth and gently dab the area—never rub, especially not aggressively, as this may cause halos or discoloration. Damp areas should always be treated carefully to prevent the leather from stiffening or losing its softness.
For tougher stains (like oil or ink), try a specific nubuck eraser or a dedicated cleaner formulated for suede or nubuck. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and test the product on a hidden area first. Don’t rush—sometimes it’s better to repeat the process gently rather than try to remove everything in one go.
Drying must be natural: no hairdryers, radiators, or direct sunlight. Let the item breathe in a dry, well-ventilated space. If the accessory has undergone a deep cleaning, it’s best to let it rest for at least a night before using it again.

Nourishing and Protecting Nubuck

Although nubuck doesn’t require nourishment in the traditional sense (as full-grain leather does), a protective treatment is essential. Waterproofing sprays are your best ally: they should be applied periodically, depending on how often the accessory is used, to repel water and dirt. Preventive protection is far more effective than reactive cleaning.
These sprays should be applied from about 20 cm (8 inches) away, evenly and without soaking the leather. After application, it’s important to let the product dry for at least 24 hours before using the bag or backpack again. Do this in a ventilated area, away from heat or humidity.
When the leather starts to look dull or flat, you can use a color restorer or a firmer brushing to bring back its original softness. The key is consistency: regular light maintenance is better than infrequent, intensive treatments.

Mistakes to Avoid

There are a few common mistakes that can seriously damage nubuck leather. The first is using too much water or generic cleaners—especially those intended for other types of leather or, worse, household cleaning. Nubuck requires specific products formulated with gentle ingredients and balanced pH.
Avoid using oils, waxes, or greasy balms (such as mink oil), as they can alter the natural color of nubuck and ruin its velvety texture. A frequent misconception is that “more product” means “more protection,” when in fact overusing products can suffocate the leather and distort its appearance.
Storage also matters. Keeping bags or accessories in damp environments or exposed to direct sunlight can cause discoloration and stiffness. It’s better to store them in breathable dust bags, with internal supports to help maintain their shape. If storing items for long periods, it’s a good idea to check them occasionally to ensure no damage has occurred.

A Material That Deserves Care

Nubuck leather is a material of great charm—one that deserves care and respect. It isn’t difficult to maintain, but it does have its own rules: a few simple gestures, the right products, and a little consistency. In return, you’ll enjoy accessories that not only last over time, but become more beautiful with each passing day.
It’s an investment, yes—but also a daily pleasure. Caring for nubuck is like nurturing a relationship: with respect and continuity, it grows and becomes richer with time.